Soldering Station

IMG_0786
At the fpv-community.de Forum I read about a DIY Weller station designed by Martin Kumm. Basically an Arduino shield to drive a Weller soldering tip. As there is not much to it, the board simply contains an precision OpAmp, a power MOSFET, 2 buttons for adjusting the temperature and a display to show the current values. This design looks like a good starting point for my own advanced project. As I have lately discovered a 1,8 inch SPI TFT at banggood.com for an amazing price ( ~ 4.60 $ / 3,70 €), I started using them regularly in my projects. So I surely wanted to use it with this soldering station as well.
The hardware design was rather hobbyish and needed to be tuned to provide the security not to kill your soldering tip while starting up or in case of a software/hardware fail. The bigger changes I made to the original design were the nice color Display, a poti instead of the buttons (I think it’s easier to adjust) and a standby mode.
The standby mode will decrease the temperature to a 170°C value when the soldering tip is in the holder. This works simply by having a pullup resistor connected to the metal holder pipe which is connected to a digital input. The soldering tip itself is connected to ground potential and will put the digital input to ground level as well when placed in holding position. For reheating the station only takes about 3 seconds which is fast enough in most cases.
SolderingStationIMG_0810
The station in the picture above is the result of a long prototyping period together with Albert – a friend of mine from university – who owns a 3d printer and wanted to have a station as well. As we started with the development of the station some friends asked us if they can by a station from us. So we decided to ask around if anyone is interested in buying this station as a DIY kit. After a short time we had 10 stations to build and a lot of money to spend on the parts.
Long story short, we thought we could make some money with this stations but in the end it turned out to be a lot of work and no money to make. But still a nice feeling developing a product and seeing someone buying and even better actually using it. 🙂
Apart from that we didn’t get much out of it, so we stopped selling this stations and closed this chapter. But still we gained a bit of experience in selling stuff and started to get that kind of startup feeling.

You cand find a video of the station in action at Alberts Blog.

If someone is interested in the actual schematics and code. Link below:

Download: GitHub/SolderingStation

By the way the PCBs are ordered at DirtyPCBs.com for just 14 USD worldwide shipping included.

Bildschirmfoto 2015-04-10 um 15.40.18

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162 Kommentare

  1. damien · April 28, 2015

    Hello, this is a very nice project.
    I would like to make a soldering station in a few months, so I downloaded your files. After having watched I have a few question:
    – what is the amperage of your power supply ?
    – what is the resistance of your poti and is it plugged on JP3 ?
    – the standby is it plugged on JP4 ?
    Thank you in advance. And congratulations for your project.

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  2. MatthiasW · April 28, 2015

    Hi damien, thanks for your interest!
    I used a 12V 8A power supply to be on the save side. Because the hard switching with pwm is not too easy to handle for cheap power supplies. I used http://tinyurl.com/nzx9fev
    The resistance of the poti does not really matter as it is just a voltage divider. I used 10k.
    The poti is connected to JP3 on pin 2 and the standby wire (from the holding pipe) is connected to JP3 pin 3
    JP4 is not used in this project. The connector is just there in case you want to connect a fan or something like that.

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    • James · Februar 24, 2016

      What power rating should i get on the resistors? Also what size of resistors and capacitors should i get?

      Thanks,
      James

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      • MatthiasW · Februar 24, 2016

        The resistors are all in 0603 as well as the 100nF caps. The other tantal caps have bigger sizes. You should find all necessary information on the BOM file on github. For the caps you will find a dedicated voltage rating and for the resistors it’s really relevant as all of them will have a maximum rating above the system voltage of maximum 12V.

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      • James · Februar 25, 2016

        thank you for your response. By the power rating i meant the wattage / milliwatt rating.

        Thanks,
        James

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  4. Damon · Juli 1, 2015

    Nice Project!
    The one big thing that stopped me from doing a DIY Solder station (besides not having a nice enclosure) is proprietary connectors. I’ve never owned a Weller/Ersa/Hakko soldering iron, but judging from the pictures I’ve seen online, most of them use a very similar 7-Pin connector. The original Hakko one costs about 10€ one-off… But ofc my dream is to have a cheap station that can drive any soldering iron – at least the ones which physically work the same way (voltage/current + their waveforms). Those Weller Mini-Irons with headphone jacks sure look excellent for this very job, but I’d rather have a „proper“ iron with grip and cord. Any suggestions?

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  5. Deep Thought · Juli 1, 2015

    I ordered a board. Great project until http://dangerousprototypes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=7218 becomes available.
    Do you have a BOM or parts list anywhere or even shopping links? (EU shops)
    Perhaps the info is somewhere in the Eagle schema. But I don’t want to install Eagle.
    On that note, can you add a pdf of the schematic to the sources tree as well perhaps?

    Thanks

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    • MatthiasW · Juli 1, 2015

      Hi Deep Thought. I added the schematic and Board file as PDF as well as a BOM with the Order numbers and names of the stores. https://github.com/ConnyCola/SolderingStation/tree/master/eagle
      A lot of the components are from Banggood. They are located in china but are very fast and cheap with deliveries to europa.

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    • James · Februar 29, 2016

      ok i checked BOM and i can not find what size and type c2 and and c7 are. Also are the size 0603 capacitors 100nf or 100pf? I read both somewhere and i just need some clarification. I have the boards and i destroyed my opa336u while trying to solder it so i am going to order a new one along with all of the resistors and capacitors.

      Thanks,
      James

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      • MatthiasW · Februar 29, 2016

        The size for C2 und C7 is 1206. The 0603 Caps are all 100nF for decoupling or like C1 and C3 as Low pass filter Caps. It’s normal to lose some parts in the process while you learn to soldier and refine your skills 🙂 don’t worry. Ordering some more parts is always a good thing as you can use them for your next projects. Things like 100nF Caps, 10µF Caps, 1k and 10k Resistors in the packages I use are always handy to have, so I would order always in 100x quantity. (except the 10µF which could be expensive)

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      • James · März 2, 2016

        Thanks for your response. so the only capacitors i could find in the usa that are 0603 nad are 100nf are low profile silicon capacitors and they are kind of expensive. I got them and i hope they will work.

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      • James · März 2, 2016

        so i figured out i could have gotten ceramic capacitors and that the silicon capacitors will not work. I ordered the wrong capacitors

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      • James · März 2, 2016

        ok i emailed the site and asked if they could change my order.

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      • James · März 11, 2016

        ok so what way should i put c7 and c2 in? What orientation?

        Thanks,
        James

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  6. thediverSøren Reinke · Juli 2, 2015

    Hi there

    Very cool idea, specially due to my old school made soldering station from 1988 now is going down the drain.

    Might you have the exact part number for the ‚Weller RT‘ ?

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    • MatthiasW · Juli 2, 2015

      Hi, thanks for your interest! The tips are just called Weller RT1. What you see on the pictures is a Weller RT3 with angled tip. I think you can buy this tips from lots of different dealers online. I’m on trip to hong kong right now… Will respond with a ordering number by next week.

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  7. 1johnkitchen · Juli 5, 2015

    Awesome project! It looks very good, and professional! I’m working on a few Arduino projects myself. Thanks for sharing the info, I may look into making one of these for myself in the near future. I will definitely look into using the DirtyPCB link you provided.

    Sincerely,
    John

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  8. Dang ho · Juli 23, 2015

    Hi.
    I want to buy your nice soldering station DIY kit or Assembled Products.

    Can i buy it?

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    • MatthiasW · Juli 26, 2015

      Hi. I am sorry but I do not sell the kit/station anymore. But the parts are very cheap and easy to get. On github you can find a partslist

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      • James · Februar 26, 2016

        Does the milliwatt rating matter? Sorry i don’t respond to your comments in 1 place but i am unsure if some of my comments are being posted or not.

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      • MatthiasW · Februar 26, 2016

        1/4 watts is good enough. Basically everything in a 0603 package will do.

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      • James · Februar 28, 2016

        What size and kind of capacitors should i use for c1 c3 c4 c5 and c6?

        Thanks
        james

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      • MatthiasW · Februar 28, 2016

        These are just 100nF ceramic caps. The voltage rating should just be over 5volt. Which it will always be, as ceramic caps typically have higher ratings as tantal. They all have a size of 0603. You can also find the size in the BOM.

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      • James · Februar 28, 2016

        also, are t2 and t3 bss138s or bsn138s

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      • MatthiasW · Februar 28, 2016

        I used bss138

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      • James · Februar 29, 2016

        c2 and c7 look larger on the board than the rest of the caps. Also somewhere i heard that the caps were 100pf. So they are 100nf caps instead of 100 pf caps?

        Thanks,
        James

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  9. Deep Thought · Juli 28, 2015

    I just received my pack of DirtyPCB. Which means I have 11 boards to give away.
    If anyone within the EU wants some. I will ship them away at cost. (I mean package and shipping)
    If anyone is interested, leave a comment here.

    I would also be interested to pool parts orders. I mean the chickenfeed from Mouser/Conrad.

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    • stoduk · Oktober 12, 2015

      Almost a year later.. do you still have some of these spare? If so, and the cost of shipping to UK is sane compared to $14 DirtyPCB price, I could use one or two.

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      • Deep Thought · Oktober 13, 2015

        I can send you a few. I still have them all.
        For the cost of s padded envelope from Germany plus whatever the boards are worth to you.

        Gefällt mir

      • bianchifan · Oktober 17, 2015

        Just stumbled into, are there one or two boards left still?
        Although I have to change a bit ‚cause no Weller, but maybe better than perf board;)

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      • Deep Thought · Oktober 19, 2015

        I think the forum comments are a bit slow to be activated.
        Just send me a email to tilman_baumann.name (Replace _ with @)
        I still have all eleven left. (One I will keep. 🙂 )

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    • hendacteslar · Oktober 20, 2016

      I don’t think you have still some of the board, but if so, by any chance, could you send me one or two?

      Gefällt mir

      • ery · November 11, 2016

        Okay, thank you very much, good to know…
        This project looks waaaay to good to be true 🙂

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  10. Chris · September 5, 2015

    Thanks for the great project, my pcbs and other parts are on the way right now.
    Can you go a little bit more in detail on the standby sensor? I’ve noticed the small hole in the casing, however I’d suppose the 3d printed plastic would melt by the heat of the tip. Have you inserted some kind of metal pipe in there?

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    • MatthiasW · September 8, 2015

      Hi Chris. Yes there is a aluminum pipe very tight in the 3D printed case. The standby sensor is then just a wire which connects from the pipe to a Pin on the controller (plus a pull up resister). The tip of the Iron is ground connected und will drive the Pin low. Thats the signal for the controller to go to standby mode and reduce the temperature to around 170 degrees C.
      I am sorry that I can not send you any pics of the assembly, as I am in a semester abroad and I do not have the station with me :). I try to get my friend back home to take some pics for you!

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      • James · März 9, 2016

        so on r2 and r7 i have tantalum smd capacitors. How do i tell the polarity? I am pretty sure the polarity matters on r2 and r7, but i do not think it matters on the rest of the ceramic capacitors and the thick film resistors i am using. I already soldered some of them. I destroyed one of my boards while trying to solder the international rectifier mosfet. I tried to use desoldering wick to remove the extra solder between the copper contacts on the board but the solder was embedded. I aven tried scraping it and it would not work. I have soldered a lot of the capacitors and the resistors on the second board. Thankfully i had not done much on the first board i destroyed. I just want to make sure i am doing it right because one i tried to build an led light up christmas tree with all through hole components and leds and i did not pay attention to the polarity and it did not work. I have not had good luck with previous projects so i just want to make sure this one will work.

        Thanks,
        James

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  15. Pascal Sauvageau · Oktober 12, 2015

    Great project, I’ve just ordered the PCB, can’t wait to assemble it!!!!!!

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  16. Chris · Oktober 14, 2015

    Congratulations for being on Hackaday!
    My pcbs have finally arrived, looking forward to assemble the unit!
    For everyone sourcing the parts right now: The LCD from banggood is meanwhile of a different type. It can be identified by the 180° rotated display on the board (versus the images above). It requires a different graphics library for ST7735 chipsets, e.g. the Adafruit-ST7735-Library
    Minor changes to the sketch are required due to different color-constants and classes, all of them are just search and replace.
    I have some pcbs of the most current version left – feel free to query me about them.

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    • sergelhr · Oktober 19, 2015

      Hello Chris
      I’m looking for two pcbs, i’m leaving in France
      still available?
      best regards
      serge

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      • Chris · Oktober 19, 2015

        Sure, just give me your email.

        BTW: Boards are working fine, got the first one assembled.

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      • sergelhr · Oktober 20, 2015

        restore.sys_free.fr (Replace _ with @)

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    • Chris · Oktober 20, 2015

      I’ve forked the repository and performed the required changes,
      Furthermore, I’ve added support for a WS2812 RGB led on the remaining aux-pin. When printing the top cover in clear plastic, the whole station shines in the same color as the text on the display, e.g. fading from red to green when reaching the selected temprature or blue during standby.
      The new STL files contain changes for the rotated display, as well as for the overlapping arduino which would otherwise result in a gap in the casing.

      Check it out here: https://github.com/CSchlipp/SolderingStation

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      • Thorsten · Oktober 21, 2015

        Hello Chris,
        i could use two of the most recent PCBs, too.
        My email adress is cpt.chaos83_googlemail.com with the underscore replaced by the @ sign.

        @MatthiasW please update your link to dirtypcbs, it still links to the 1.5 version.
        I ordered these in the summer and just noticed now that they are the old version.

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      • Chris · Oktober 24, 2015

        HI Thorsten,

        I’ll shoot you an email.

        However, there are obviously only minor changes in the routing in V1.6, nothing new compared to the linked V1.5. Just leave out the large Capacitor next to the 3,5mm connector.
        Your boards should work fine as well!

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      • Tom · November 28, 2015

        hi chris,
        which fastled lib are you using? i tried with version 3.1 from https://github.com/FastLED/FastLED/releases ,
        but i get errors:

        In file included from /home/tm/sketchbook/libraries/FastLED/FastLED.h:45:0,
        from SolderStation.ino:9:
        /home/tm/sketchbook/libraries/FastLED/fastled_progmem.h:45:57: error: variable ‘iron’ must be const in order to be put into read-only section by means of ‘__attribute__((progmem))’
        #define PROGMEM __attribute__((section(„.progmem.data“)))
        ^
        iron.h:9:21: note: in expansion of macro ‘PROGMEM’
        prog_uint8_t iron[] PROGMEM={
        ^
        /home/tm/sketchbook/libraries/FastLED/fastled_progmem.h:45:57: error: variable ‘stationLOGO1’ must be const in order to be put into read-only section by means of ‘__attribute__((progmem))’
        #define PROGMEM __attribute__((section(„.progmem.data“)))
        ^
        stationLOGO.h:9:29: note: in expansion of macro ‘PROGMEM’
        prog_uint8_t stationLOGO1[] PROGMEM={
        ^
        /home/tm/sketchbook/libraries/FastLED/fastled_progmem.h:45:57: error: variable ‘stationLOGO2’ must be const in order to be put into read-only section by means of ‘__attribute__((progmem))’
        #define PROGMEM __attribute__((section(„.progmem.data“)))
        ^
        stationLOGO.h:60:29: note: in expansion of macro ‘PROGMEM’
        prog_uint8_t stationLOGO2[] PROGMEM={
        ^
        /home/tm/sketchbook/libraries/FastLED/fastled_progmem.h:45:57: error: variable ‘stationLOGO3’ must be const in order to be put into read-only section by means of ‘__attribute__((progmem))’
        #define PROGMEM __attribute__((section(„.progmem.data“)))
        ^
        stationLOGO.h:111:29: note: in expansion of macro ‘PROGMEM’
        prog_uint8_t stationLOGO3[] PROGMEM={

        sorry for the ugly layout, but i have no idea, how to do this better in a blog.
        could you help?
        thanks
        tom

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      • Chris · November 28, 2015

        Hi Tom,
        I’m using the 3.000.002 version as mentioned in the header files.
        However, I don’t think your errors are related to the lib itself.

        There were some minor changes to the .h files I’ve missed to commit in the first place. Check out the last commits in my repo, this should fix these errors.

        BTW: Use pastebin and copy the link to your post 😉

        Cheers,
        Christian

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      • tomm · November 28, 2015

        hi chris,
        thanks for your quick response.
        i tried with your changes. now different errors, but still errors and i have no idea what to do.
        could you please help again.
        btw, learned something on the way…
        http://pastebin.com/6BzxxHun

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      • Chris · November 28, 2015

        Hi Tom,
        That’s strange, my code compiles for me using Arduino 1.6.5.
        You can try to rename all „prog_uint8_t“ to „uint8_t“ in the .h files. I wasn’t able to test it, but I’m pretty sure it works.

        – Chris

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      • Chris · November 28, 2015

        Did some testing on this…
        Obviously, prog_uint8_t is not defined anymore in the most recent version of the Arduino IDE (1.6.6). I changed it to uint8_t and committed the changes to the repo.
        Furthermore, I’ve added the definition of the ST7735_GREY color. It isn’t included in the ST7735 lib by default.

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      • tom · November 28, 2015

        Perfekt Chris. now it compiles fine. the missing grey definition i could repair before on my own. but the other errors — no chance.
        thanks again.

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  17. Ozan · Oktober 16, 2015

    Hi,
    Really great project, thanks for sharing all the details. I want to build one for myself but unfortunately I can’t find Opa336u in my country. Can you suggest a different opamp?

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  18. Frank · Oktober 23, 2015

    I am just ordering the electronic parts and wondered why there are two different capacitors (C2 and C7) with 10 uf (6V and 16V) . As i does’nt find the 6V capacitors, can I use the 16 V instead for both, or is this a problem?

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  19. John · Oktober 24, 2015

    This is a very interesting project. May give it a try. Thank you for sharing.

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  20. Toni Vera · November 16, 2015

    Nice Project! MatthiasW

    This is the necessary proyect for all person that he wants to do some thing works about DIY. I ordered the PCB and arrived last week.

    I´m ordering the componets and i have a diferent versión on the web (V1.6) that on the DirtyPCBs.com (V1.5).

    In the BOM list of componets, I have direrences of the versions.

    C8 capacitor is not on the BOM, and I would like khow the diference about this versions.

    Sorry for my english.

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    • MatthiasW · November 23, 2015

      The capacitor C8 in V1.5 is not really necessary. There is only one small change in V1.6, which is the resistor R13. I changed it form a pull-down to a pull-up so I can detect when the soldering tip is disconnected. This feature did not work with a pull-down… You can just fix that but with a small wire and a resistor on the board. If you need further instructions just let me know.

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      • Tom · November 28, 2015

        hi matthias
        i would go for the further instructions .) i’m not really an electronic expert.
        what has to be done on an 1.5 board. wire running from where? what size of resistor?
        btw. great work. thanks

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      • James · Februar 22, 2016

        I ordered all of the main parts on the excel parts list but i am not sure what else i need. I am not sure what kind of resistors to use and i am not sure how it all goes together. Do you have a circuit diagram with all of the parts?

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      • MatthiasW · Februar 22, 2016

        Hi James you should find all information on github in the eagle sub folder. https://github.com/ConnyCola/SolderingStation
        Let me know if you have further questions.

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      • James · Februar 23, 2016

        What power and voltage ratings should i get on the resistors?

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      • James · Februar 23, 2016

        Also, what size of smd resistor should i use?

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  21. Toni Vera · November 16, 2015

    Hi MatthiasW, very interesting proyect.
    I want to build three station, one for me and two for mis university´s classmates. The PCBs are here and i´m buying the components but I have a problem with the versions, because the PCB in DirtyPCB is V1.5, and the version in the blog is V1.6, and we have some differences, for example C8 that in a new version does not exist.
    Can you help me please?
    I need the components list about V1.5 version.
    Thanks for sharing your proyect, it is really insteresting to me.

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    • bianchifan · November 23, 2015

      I’ve got V1.5, too.
      C8 helps integrating PWM output, due to heating element I think it’s not neccessary.
      Have a look at the BOM V1.6 for the values, good luck!

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    • MatthiasW · November 23, 2015

      @bianchifan is right! The capacitor C8 in V1.5 is not really necessary. There is only one small change in V1.6, which is the resistor R13. I changed it form an pull-down to an pull-up so I can detect when the soldering tip is disconnected. This feature did not work with a pull-down…

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  22. Erik A · November 18, 2015

    Hi, can you suggest „through hole“ components instead of the smd ones for use on a larger breadboard? Thanks!

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  23. Toni Vera · November 24, 2015

    Thanks for your answer. I’m waiting the components to start the soldering station. If you can say me the information about this change I can see the differences and I change it in the documentation.

    Very good job, and thanks for all.

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  24. JuMa · November 24, 2015

    Dear friends,
    I am looking for PCB for this very interesting project. Is there somebody, who have free one in reserve, please? If yes, send me a message to juma1x2_gmail.ccc, („_“=@, „ccc“=com), please.

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  25. Martin · November 26, 2015

    It would be nice if you would at least cite the original project (http://www.martin-kumm.de/smd_solder_station)
    As far as I see the core was completely copied…

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    • MatthiasW · November 27, 2015

      Hi Martin, I guess you designed the original project. – great work by the way – . I found your project on the fpv-community.de forum as I mentioned in my first sentence so I linked directly to that. Of course the core is still the same, as I just added some more functionality. I will add a link to your original post 🙂

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      • James · März 10, 2016

        on c2 and c7, what side is positive and what side is negative on the circuit board? What direction should i solder c2 and c7?

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  26. SR · November 28, 2015

    Seriously cool project might try it myself in the future if I get some free time 😛 The LCD screen is an amazing touch, so jealous of this at the moment! What voltage does this run on, does it plug into the mains?

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  27. Hanno · Dezember 3, 2015

    Hi! Great project and thanks for sharing! Me and my niece are definitely going to build one. However, I have some small questions: What kind of aluminium pipe are you using for holding the soldering iron? Can you provide a link? How do you connect the StandBy wire to the pipe; by soldering? Do you have a fuse implemented in your design?

    Best,
    Hanno

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    • MatthiasW · Dezember 3, 2015

      Hi hanno. The pipe was just a piece of aluminum I had lying around. The standby wire was just clamped between the 3D printed frame and the pipe. I did not use a fuse in the design as the 12v supply voltage is provided by dc supply. But it’s definitely a good idea to add a fuse. Maybe something like a T 5A. Have fun with your project!

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      • Hanno · Dezember 4, 2015

        Hi Matthias! Thanks for getting back to me. I just forked your project on GitHub as I am planning to do some modifications to your design (rotary encoder, Atmega328 on PCB instead of Arduino Pro Mini, …). Hence, I have some more questions in this regard:

        1. Why are ports 2, 4 and 8 connected to 5V? Is there any specific reason or are these ports in principle free to use?

        2. What is the purpose of connecting the gate of the backlight MOSFET to port 7 of the Arduino? Is it used for controlling the brightness via PWM? I could not find any reference in your code…

        Best,
        Hanno

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      • MatthiasW · Dezember 4, 2015

        The rotary encoder is a really good idea. I think I just connected this pins so that I can rout the 5V supply voltage on the pcb easier. The mosfet is used to just turn on the backlight as soon as the tft is initialized. Otherwise you could see some random patterns on the tft

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      • Hanno · Dezember 4, 2015

        Okay, thanks! From what I can see in your schematics, the backlight pin (Pin 5) is directly connected to the display’s backlight as well as to the source of the MOSFET. The gate however is connected to Pin 7. I guess the MOSFET does not have any effect on switching the backlight on or off? Or am I totally wrong here?

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      • MatthiasW · Dezember 4, 2015

        Well I guess you found a massive bug right there. I am not sure if I missed that during development where I swapped the pins a view times… I will double check with the pcb and older versions. Thanks for that hint!

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  28. Pascal Sauvageau · Dezember 11, 2015

    Hi Mathias.
    I’m almost ready to test my solderstation, thanks to you for the great project!

    I’ve bought the Weller RT1 tip but on your BOM you never tell which pencil you used for that project, I suppose it’s a Weller or do you use another type?

    Thanks again for that great project!

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  30. Pingback: DIY SMD Soldering Station with AVR | Following Electronics
  31. Pascal Sauvageau · Januar 8, 2016

    Allright, I’ve uploaded the software into the Arduino, the screen goes up, I can dial a temperature but there’s nothing going on, there is no voltage going to the Weller tip and there is no pwm (bottom right of the screen). Any suggestion?

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    • MatthiasW · Januar 11, 2016

      Hi Pascal, is the station maybe in standby mode due to a not properly connected Tip. I am guessing the cable or connections to the 3,5mm jacks is the problem.

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      • James · April 3, 2016

        I have completed my board and jumped the power switch header using a jumper wire and connected the power adapter and no lights came on on the arduino pro mini. I have not received my ftdi adapter in the mail, but since no lights come on does that mean that it does not work. Did i do something wrong on the board? I do not have the top holder or the potentiometer attached to the board. I also have not received my 1.8 inch tft display.

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      • MatthiasW · April 3, 2016

        Hi James can you please start a new comment and not just write randomly under others. That’s a bit confusing. If no lights came on you probably did not solder in the voltage regulator correctly (that’s the 7805). Check if you can measure the 5volt rail.

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  32. Adam · Februar 27, 2016

    Hi Matthias,
    Great project, I have just ordered all the components, but was wondering if it would be at all possible to also power a hakko 907 type iron with this (2 separate ports, only use 1 at a time) the iron is 24v but at 70w should only require 3amps (I think) so perhaps a boost regulator between the circuit and hakko plug? I’m a noob at this so if anyone could point me in the right direction or tell me it’s impossible that would be great.
    Thanks Adam

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  33. Adam · Februar 27, 2016

    Hi Matthias,
    Great looking project, I have just ordered All the components and was wondering if it would be possible to have a separate plug socket so it could also drive a hakko 907 type iron, obviously it would only run one at a time, but the 907 is a 24v 70w so should require about 2.9 amps (I think) so perhaps a 12v to 24v boost transformer at the output? It may also be necessary to swap the thermistor for a k type thermocouple aswell, or perhaps have switchable options on the menu? I am quite a noob at this so appreciate any advice.
    Thanks Adam

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  34. frank · Februar 27, 2016

    awesome project, just ordered the boards

    Gefällt mir

  35. James · April 3, 2016

    i replaced the voltage regulator and the old one broke apart when i took it off. It works now and the lights come on.

    Gefällt mir

  36. James · April 5, 2016

    I got an error while programming:
    Arduino: 1.6.8 (Windows 10), Board: „Arduino Pro or Pro Mini, ATmega328 (5V, 16 MHz)“

    C:\Users\jrs\Documents\SolderStation\SolderStation.ino:9:54: fatal error: Adafruit_GFX.h: No such file or directory

    #include // Core graphics library

    ^

    compilation terminated.

    exit status 1
    Error compiling for board Arduino Mini.

    This report would have more information with
    „Show verbose output during compilation“
    option enabled in File -> Preferences.

    Gefällt mir

    • James · April 5, 2016

      i removed adafruit_gfx.h and i still got error compiling for board pro/promini

      Gefällt mir

    • James · April 5, 2016

      ok i found the adafruit gfx file and added it and restored the .ino and i set it to check rts on close but i am still getting this error:

      Arduino: 1.6.8 (Windows 10), Board: „Arduino Pro or Pro Mini, ATmega328 (5V, 16 MHz)“

      C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\arduino-builder -dump-prefs -logger=machine -hardware „C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware“ -tools „C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\tools-builder“ -tools „C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr“ -built-in-libraries „C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries“ -libraries „C:\Users\jrs\Documents\Arduino\libraries“ -fqbn=arduino:avr:pro:cpu=16MHzatmega328 -ide-version=10608 -build-path „C:\Users\jrs\AppData\Local\Temp\buildc674c2606f182ca468c23ea3350db106.tmp“ -warnings=none -prefs=build.warn_data_percentage=75 -verbose „C:\Users\jrs\Documents\SolderStation\SolderStation.ino“
      C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\arduino-builder -compile -logger=machine -hardware „C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware“ -tools „C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\tools-builder“ -tools „C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr“ -built-in-libraries „C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries“ -libraries „C:\Users\jrs\Documents\Arduino\libraries“ -fqbn=arduino:avr:pro:cpu=16MHzatmega328 -ide-version=10608 -build-path „C:\Users\jrs\AppData\Local\Temp\buildc674c2606f182ca468c23ea3350db106.tmp“ -warnings=none -prefs=build.warn_data_percentage=75 -verbose „C:\Users\jrs\Documents\SolderStation\SolderStation.ino“
      „C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr/bin/avr-g++“ -c -g -Os -w -std=gnu++11 -fno-exceptions -ffunction-sections -fdata-sections -fno-threadsafe-statics -w -x c++ -E -CC -mmcu=atmega328p -DF_CPU=16000000L -DARDUINO=10608 -DARDUINO_AVR_PRO -DARDUINO_ARCH_AVR „-IC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino“ „-IC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\variants\eightanaloginputs“ „C:\Users\jrs\AppData\Local\Temp\buildc674c2606f182ca468c23ea3350db106.tmp\sketch\SolderStation.ino.cpp“ -o „nul“
      „C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr/bin/avr-g++“ -c -g -Os -w -std=gnu++11 -fno-exceptions -ffunction-sections -fdata-sections -fno-threadsafe-statics -w -x c++ -E -CC -mmcu=atmega328p -DF_CPU=16000000L -DARDUINO=10608 -DARDUINO_AVR_PRO -DARDUINO_ARCH_AVR „-IC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino“ „-IC:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\variants\eightanaloginputs“ „C:\Users\jrs\AppData\Local\Temp\buildc674c2606f182ca468c23ea3350db106.tmp\sketch\SolderStation.ino.cpp“ -o „C:\Users\jrs\AppData\Local\Temp\buildc674c2606f182ca468c23ea3350db106.tmp\preproc\ctags_target_for_gcc_minus_e.cpp“
      C:\Users\jrs\Documents\SolderStation\SolderStation.ino:9:54: fatal error: Adafruit_GFX.h: No such file or directory

      #include // Core graphics library

      ^

      compilation terminated.

      exit status 1
      Error compiling for board Arduino Pro or Pro Mini.

      Gefällt mir

  37. James · April 8, 2016

    Hello, I have fixed a lot of the errors while programming but i still have not finished programming the arduino. My tft from banggood came today and i pluged it into my board, jumped the switch header and plugged it on to the wall outlet. The screen turned on a little but is flickered when the light would flash on the arduino and then it turned off. I have not been able to get the screen to light up since lt lighted up for the first time. Is my screen dead? Did i destroy it? Did is older something wrong? Please respond.

    Thanks,
    James

    Gefällt mir

    • MatthiasW · April 10, 2016

      I think you are using a slitly different TFT module. You should try to use this library instead https://hec.su/dsfb.

      Gefällt mir

      • James · April 12, 2016

        ok i changed the code to #include // Hardware-specific library and installed the library. I am getting this error now:
        Arduino: 1.6.8 (Windows 10), Board: „Arduino Pro or Pro Mini, ATmega328 (5V, 16 MHz)“

        compilation terminated.

        Using library Adafruit_GFX at version 1.1.5 in folder: C:\Users\jrs\Documents\Arduino\libraries\Adafruit_GFX
        exit status 1
        Error compiling for board Arduino Pro or Pro Mini.

        Gefällt mir

      • James · April 21, 2016

        i have the arduino partially programmed but i ran into some errors that i am working to fix. The screen only turns on when i touch some of the pins on the back of the 90 degree screen header. Did i solder something wrong?

        Gefällt mir

      • MatthiasW · April 21, 2016

        I guess it is the soldering. When your display works, does it show a normal picture or just random stuff?

        Gefällt mir

      • James · April 22, 2016

        it just lights up. It does not show anything.

        Gefällt mir

      • James · April 27, 2016

        i am still unsure of the problem.

        Gefällt mir

    • jadinen · Mai 1, 2016

      I had some problems with white screen too.. tried every possible library and later found out that data pins didn’t have good connection. I think you should check with multimeter that every pin has solid connection from screen to arduino and screen pins 1-5 go through 1k resistor. And make make sure the code you are uploading have right pins defined.

      Gefällt mir

  38. DenisLuc · Mai 15, 2016

    Ou puis-je trouver le schéma de connexion du RT1 vers le circuit électronique ?

    Where can I find the RT1 connection diagram to the electronic circuit?

    Gefällt mir

  39. Kitt1977 · Juni 15, 2016

    Would it be possible to use this on WMRT SMD Tweezers ? It has 2X40watt elements .. may put those parralel and only use 1 temp sensor ?

    Gefällt mir

  40. Kitt1977 · Juni 16, 2016

    Should i be able to adop this station to use the WMRT tweezer also ? Maybe put the 2 heating elements parallel ?
    Btw anyone hase some pcb’s left ?

    Gefällt mir

  41. Tom Pauwels · Juni 16, 2016

    Anyone has some pcb’s for sale ?
    Should i be able to adopt this station to use the WMRT tweezer also ?
    Maybe put the 2 heating elements parallel ?

    Gefällt mir

    • ery · November 11, 2016

      Hi,
      do you still need PCBs? I’ve ordered 10 pieces and only need one (at least i hope so :D)

      Gefällt mir

      • Kilian · Januar 16, 2017

        Hi
        I’m not able to order a pcb using the provided link.
        I’ve got this message from their support :
        „Thank you for your interest. The factory has detected that your Gerber file is empty so kindly check on your end if it got damaged or corrupted.“
        mfg Kilian

        Gefällt mir

  42. Mario · Juli 20, 2016

    Hi Matthias,

    Very nice project and I am about to try it in a different fashion – throw the PCBs away of a Weller station and implant these 🙂 I couldn`t find the sensor and heater resistanse of the RT1… pencils, can you point me if this one could drive an iron like the 1301/1201 type? I think they were 24ohm for the sensor @ 22C and 12ohm for the heater.

    Grüße,
    Mario

    Gefällt mir

  43. Pingback: The Hacktory » DIY Soldering Station
  44. hendacteslar · Oktober 20, 2016

    Hi, nice project, if anyone has some PCBs left, let me know: hendac.teslar_gmail.com (replace „_“ with „@“). Thanks.

    Gefällt mir

  45. ery · November 11, 2016

    Hello,
    can someone please help me on ordering the required parts? I have the bom but i dont know how to get the fitting parts… For example im looking for a C0603 capactitor but i only find 0603 ones… are these the same?`How do i know where i can get the right ones?…
    (Im just starting with electronics…)

    Thanks..

    Gefällt mir

    • MatthiasW · November 11, 2016

      Hi. 0603 is the right size. The c just tells you that it is a capacitor. The resistors and capasitors are not that critical. You will get them everywhere, just get the right value. It is important to get the right mosfet and op amp with the right part number.

      Gefällt mir

      • ery · November 11, 2016

        Is there a way to get every part right? For example AUDIO_JACK_3,5MM_CONRAD also sounds like… every 3.5mm jack. I mean jeah, this part isnt that unique but i just dont know where to get the right thing… 😦

        Gefällt mir

  46. Mark Fraser · November 22, 2016

    Never mind, I eventually altered the syntax of uint8_t to begin „const uint8_t ….“ and all worked, thank you!

    Gefällt mir

  47. ery · Dezember 10, 2016

    Hello,
    can you please post a photo with all the components soldered onto the pcb?
    Would make it easier for me to see wether or not i placed all the parts correct. Right now im not sure what to do with the 3 pins on the „front side“ of the arduino… Thanks…

    Gefällt mir

    • ery · Dezember 10, 2016

      First of all, sorry about my last questions about the parts. In just saw today that you already had a full parts list in the text file, i only looked up the BOM.html file…

      As an addition to my question above:
      I marked the pins i dont know what to do with. Can you please help me on that?

      Also… after reading the most of the comments… i have the v1.5 Board with the v1.6 parts, should be no issue, i guess?.. Even when no soldering iron is connected… the circuit isnt closed(?), therefor nothing should happen anyway, right?

      Gefällt mir

      • ery · Dezember 10, 2016

        Holy, im an idiot -“ most of the comments“ is not enough… At least the marked cap and the question about the new board are solved now…

        Gefällt mir

      • ery · Dezember 11, 2016

        Next question solved… i bought the arduino pro mini from adafruit (just to be sure to get the 100% correct version) –> on this board the three pins are missing… Lucky me, bought another pro mini clone for another project and this one fits to the board…

        Gefällt mir

  48. MatthiasW · Dezember 12, 2016

    Nice to hear that you could solve your problems. And thanks for documenting it here for others with the same problem!

    Gefällt mir

  49. Pascal Sauvageau · Dezember 27, 2016

    Hi Mathias!
    I’m wondering how were you able to put graphics into the projects, I’m trying on my own (on another project) and can’t get it to work, I found some encoder online but it only ouput total garbage on the tft screen.

    Gefällt mir

  50. Pascal Sauvageau · Dezember 31, 2016

    Danke schön Mathias I will try it out 🙂

    Gefällt mir

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